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You can depend on KCs Plumbing and Heating to take care of any plumbing heating or drainage problem day or night with our 24hr emergency call service. Great service, fair rates.
KCs Plumbing & Heating first opened for business in 1993 and has become a household name with many of our customers since then. When it comes to plumbing, heating, gas, a plugged drain or any related problem, you can count on us to fix it quickly, at a reasonable price. With our fleet of service vehicles on the road at all times we can be at your front door very quickly if you have an emergency situation. If you have a plumbing job we can schedule, it is taken care of in a reasonable time most convenient for you.
How to Use a Plumber’s Snake
A plumber’s snake, or drain auger, is a tool that reaches down into pipes to remove clog-causing blockage. Snakes make up the middle ground between common household plungers and the really big guns. If you’re dealing with a clog too stubborn for your plunger, then a snake is your best chance to clear it out yourself.
Snakes are much more powerful drain-clearers than plungers, but they’re also slightly riskier to use. If you use your plumber’s snake improperly, then you might tear up your pipes or even create leaks. To avoid doing that, it’s important to know how your snake works and how to use it correctly. Here’s everything you should know about using a plumber’s snake.
How does a plumber’s snake work?what is a plumber's snake?A plumber’s snake is a long, flexible metal cable with a small auger or uncoiled spring on one end and a handle on the other. The auger on the snake looks like a drill bit or a corkscrew. Home plumber’s snakes are usually around 50 feet long. The cable coils up when you’re not using it. Most home plumber’s snakes are hand-operated, and probably have a rotatable handle or even a crank.
Plumber’s snakes work by entering the drain directly to physically contact and then clear away the obstruction causing the clog. You manually insert the auger end of the snake into the drain and then begin uncoiling by rotating the handle. As the snake uncoils, the auger moves further through the drain pipe, until it breaks through the obstruction.
How do you use a plumber’s snake?1. Put on some clothes you don’t mind getting dirty and lay some old towels beneath the pipes you’re working on. Depending on the nature of the clog, your snaking procedure could get messy. This is especially important if you end up removing the p-trap.
2. (Optional) Consider removing the p-trap. The p-trap, or p-bend, is the curving piece of pipe beneath the sink. It connects the sink to the greater drain pipe system in your home. The reason it’s curved is to prevent sewer gases from rising through the sink and into the home. P-traps are often made of PVC pipe, though they can also be metal.
You can manually remove the p-trap, either with your hands or with the help of an adjustable wrench. Once you remove the p-trap, you should thoroughly inspect and clean it out. If you find your obstruction, then you won’t have to snake at all! Even if you don’t find anything, removing the trap could make snaking easier.
3. (Optional) Consider removing the trap arm. A trap arm is the part of the pipe between the p-trap and the actual wall pipe. It holds the p-trap in place and may curve again to reach the wall. Look for a plastic or metal nut connecting the trap arm to the wall. If you can find one, loosen it to remove the trap arm. If you can’t, then it’s possible the arm is glued in place; don’t attempt to remove it in that case. Make sure you clean out the trap arm like you did the p-trap once you remove it.
Removing the trap arm gets you as close to the drain pipe as possible. Look inside the drain pipe to look for any obstructions. If you can see the obstruction, try removing it from where you are. If you can’t, you should use your snake.
4. Manually thread the auger head of the snake into the pipe. Insert the head of the snake into either the drain (if you didn’t remove the trap), or the access point on the wall. If you didn’t remove the trap, consider running cold water while you snake.
Don’t force the auger into the drain too hard, or you could damage the drain entrance or pipe. Be patient and make sure the head and cable aren’t too long for the drain you’re trying to snake.
5. Begin uncoiling the snake using the handle. Keep the handle of the snake as close to the entrance of the pipe as possible. The more slack the auger had has, the less force you’re supplying it.
Rotate the handle at a consistent pace. Don’t try to rush it or rotate too slowly. If you feel pressure at any point while the cable moves through the pipe, you may have encountered the obstruction.
6. Upon reaching the obstruction, move the rotate the head back-and-forth and up-and-down. Try to break up the obstruction as thoroughly as possible. Don’t try to jam the auger into the walls of the pipe, however. If you hear scraping noises, then you should stop snaking and re-adjust.
If you think the auger might be stuck in the obstruction, consider pulling the snake out of the pipe. In some cases, the obstruction may come out with it. Continue snaking until you no longer feel resistance and the snake uncoils to its full length.
7. Pull the snake out and re-assemble the sink components. Check the auger head for remains of the obstruction and clean it off. If you removed the trap arm and p-trap, then you should re-install them at this point.
8. Check the sink. The snake should have successfully removed the obstruction and solved the clogging problem. If you still seem to have a clog, then you could try repeating your snaking process again. Just like plunging, however, snaking too much can harm your pipes or drains. If a thorough snaking really didn’t solve your problem, then you should consider calling in the pros.
Snaking is a surprisingly easy and accessible homeowner project. As long as you understand how to use your snake, you should solve your problem without creating new ones.
Sometimes, however, you may not be able to beat that clog, no matter what you try. Don’t despair! After your snake, the next step is to call Mike Diamond. We’ve got the tools and know how to find and break up any clog, no matter how stubborn.
Housing Foundation Stability
When you have a basement flood pay attention since it could be costly. Dampness in the lower level implies many issues beginning from a leaky pipe to water seeping through foundation cracks. It can lead to mold, wood rot and pest infestations, all of which are unpleasant and expensive to fix. It typically accompanies ruined stuff like furnishings or appliances and may even lead to structural damage.
This is one of those concerns that has a tendency to get swept under the rug. Out of sight out of mind is not really any reason for negligence here. Take some time to investigate the basement especially if you have been living there for a number of years. If you suspect abnormal water in your basement then you will need to take a closer look at it.
Typical Issues
Inappropriate surface water flow such as a yard sloped toward the house is one typical cause. Re-grading the yard can correct that type of problem by sloping water flow away from the footing or directing surface water around the home .
Another typical culprits include poorly installed gutter downspouts, absent, leaking or plugged rain gutters. What happens is that water builds up at the foundation walls placing undue pressure there ultimately leading to troubles like exploiting a weak link in the foundation. Cracks enlarge and water penetrates in.
Other problems occurs when the home is built on a high water table. A high water table predicament can be the result of underground streams or heavy rain that could cause the water table to go up, or the home was built too deeply into a wet area.
Determine if it is Leakage or Condensation
You should try to figure out if the trouble is a water leak or if it is just moisture. Moisture build-up or condensation is a an element of warm temps colliding with cooler pipes walls and flooring.
Practical Measures
The rain gutters ought to be cleared of leaves and things no less than once a year. Take a look at your downspouts to verify they are placed correctly, allowing for water to drain into sewers lines. Start using a splash block at the end of your downspout to counteract soil erosion.
If the issue is condensation, then make use of a humidifier to stabilize moisture in your basement. Connect a drain hose to the equipment so you do not have to empty the water it collects. Close windows and doors in the basement. Open doors and windows let extra dampness to enter your basement, resulting in moisture build-up or condensation and your home dehumidifier will also run less.
Waterproof Paint
There are a number of good waterproofing house paints and sealers on the sewer drain cleaning market today. Water-proof paints can work nicely for slight moisture on walls and floors. Look at manufacturers instructions before committing to any type of product.
Need Assistance?
A nearby service can offer you various alternatives, depending on the cause of the trouble. Methods may include slope excavation, the installation of new perimeter drains, new gutters, or probably even renovations to strengthen the foundation walls. As you can evidently see, preventive work is the obvious key to a dry and comfy house. If you live in an area with serious precipitation, then preventative methods ought to be taken if water has been detected in basement.
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